23, it seems, plus a chicken or two, and plenty of plantains. They’re really not that big inside, so this is impressive. .There’s a police presence on the road at the moment, as the main road to Meru is being used by Somalia people travelling across the border. Today I see some sights, with Jackson as my tour guide (a local boy). We climb Kawue (a bizarrely-shaped conical mountain used for radio signaling) – the route passes through farmland and coffee plantations and finishes with a long steep climb, HOT! – but at the top you can see for miles around, including an impressive cloud formation concealing the summit of Mt Kenya (ah well!). People come to pray here, as it is so quiet. On the way down I meet my first chameleon, he is yellow and black striped, including his eyes. We catch another matatu to a stunning waterfall (and there’s a cave too, full of giant moths). The soil is SO lush here (the redness comes from the ‘laterite’ clay which is heavily enriched with iron and aluminum, due to the rainfalls and intense heat) and we poach a couple of guavas for pudding. Weaver birds make their nests here as circular bundles which hang from the banana trees. Later Jack takes me to his Youth Cimate change meeting, this is a very enthusiastic group who have already set up several local projects, including a plastic bag recycling scheme, and the planting of sukuma.
Paediatric clinic – usual amount of noise coming from waiting room. Most are here for follow-up, a few are suffering from white-coat syndrome. I cut out the cardboard tickets which are given out for the date of next appointment. Interestingly, rickets has a surprisingly high prevalence in this area of Kenya – research is underway to investigate the cause, as no-one seems to know why… (Also, the risk for a Kenyan of developing a cancer is considerably lower than in the Western world (although prevalence is on the rise, probably as more and more of our culture creeps in) - this is thought to be due to the diet here which is very low in fat and high in fibre (beans beans beans!) - long may it continue).
I boil arrowroots for lunch – sweet, with a mottle white & purple flecked inside, to be dunked in chai (as with many things!). You can also eat them with fermented milk, or ‘mala’ – this is a bit like sour yoghurt and is thought to be incredibly good for you (which it probably is! - probiotic central). The masai make it with cow’s blood and urine and leave it for several days to ‘mature’ in a galabash (gourd). If it works for them… (One can even go the whole hog and ferment the ugi porridge, although Gilbert assures me serving both together would be overkill).
Sofi plaits the top of my hair as an experiment to see if it will hold, she is generally unimpressed as it is far too soft and she has to pull it extremely tight, ow. She also calls me ‘baby face’. I’ll try not to mind.
I am joined for early morning aerobics by Charlotta, a german girl who is spending time at Toto Love. I’m sure I lose half my body water each time – I feel dizzy for the rest of the day. We are a comedy-duo running home, and acquire several co-runners. (‘Hello I am fine’ is standard greeting– bit confused? but friendly at least).
Sunday is church day, and the music and drums start early and go right on through. Everyone is in Sunday best. I walk to town to meet Coach Summi and the Black Cats – today is an away match against Kuayambora FC. No worries, we’re confident. Summi has hired an open-top truck to take the whole team plus supporters – its an hour’s drive and the speed bumps make for a interesting ride! I am the team photographer, but progress is impeded by my welcoming crew – who follow me across the pitch and round about. A mzungo is a good afternoon’s entertainment, although it’s very friendly. Anyway, I’m glad when the match kicks off. Two tense halves, it’s hot and dusty, and the refs aren’t playing fair… Big pep talk needed at half time. BUT: the boys play well, and final score stands 2:1 to Black Cats! It’s nearly dark as we drive home – this time I sit up front (dunno what’s more unnerving, being able to feel the bumps or see them coming!). We are treated to an incredible view of Mt Kenya (finally, my first!) – it has the most amazing rocky profile, and you can see the twin peaks of Batian and Nelion. A flash of lightening forks right through the sky away from us – the storm will come to Embu later.
PS. I will try and upload some photos of the hospital soon, I’m just biding my time with the camera!
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